Okay, an acquaintance of mine has an older Bridgeport Mill that can be mine for the cost of getting it out of his shop. I've always wanted one of these and I would appreciate it if someone could tell me what model it is (see attached photo) and if this is a machine worth restoring. Moving it will not be cheap. Thanks!
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Bridgeport opinions
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Bridgeport Series 1 CNC
Does anybody know anything about this machine? Tape? Conversational capabilities? Easily upgraded? Any other pertinent info about it?
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New tool for Bridgeport from Irwin
did anyone else see this commercial? It peeked my interest because of the Bridgeport (or clone) on the screen...and then I realized what this prick is doing!
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Dial Locks?
Any helpful suggestions on how to get a set unstuck on my new to me 2J? I really don't think a pipe wrench is the best instrument, yet. Jay
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2J bearing replacement
This is my first time tearing into a BOSS 2J. It makes tons of noise, I removed the top half of the aluminum housing and the upper sheave rattles, the yoke rattles, and the entire shaft the sheaves are on rattles back and forth (about an inch at the top). I have a spare 2J boss head that doesn't rattle that I am going to get parts from.
I have it torn down to the point where I pulled the lower sheave from the shaft but I need to get the highlighted bearing out. Is there any way to pull it without having to remove the bottom half of aluminum housing? I was hoping to avoid pulling the motor, but I can't see how I can remove the bearing retainer from the top.
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I have it torn down to the point where I pulled the lower sheave from the shaft but I need to get the highlighted bearing out. Is there any way to pull it without having to remove the bottom half of aluminum housing? I was hoping to avoid pulling the motor, but I can't see how I can remove the bearing retainer from the top.
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Hardinge TM/UM X-Axis Binding
Sorry for the long post! A little new to this, ...
I got a problem with the X-axis binding on both the far left and far right. I will respond to this post adding images and descriptions. But here are some of the details, which lead me to think that the table is not warped.
I have had this mill for about a year and I’m a total amateur - woodworker picking up some metal working in my garage.
This is a TM/UM and I removed the table when I was moving it out of a pickup bed. Even if I did not reinstall the table correctly, my understanding is that it would have only effected the swivel action of the table, not the X-Y movement. Correct?
Please see the followup for images.
Any guidance or thoughts would be very appreciated.
Oh, I have *recently* had a Kurt 6” vise bolted to the table for about 4 months, but at 60 some lbs, I have a hard time believing that would have warped the table or lead screw. I guess I would consider that was the cause if only one side of the table was biding, but both are binding.
Many thanks!
John
I got a problem with the X-axis binding on both the far left and far right. I will respond to this post adding images and descriptions. But here are some of the details, which lead me to think that the table is not warped.
I have had this mill for about a year and I’m a total amateur - woodworker picking up some metal working in my garage.
This is a TM/UM and I removed the table when I was moving it out of a pickup bed. Even if I did not reinstall the table correctly, my understanding is that it would have only effected the swivel action of the table, not the X-Y movement. Correct?
- The mill is rather clean with factory scrapings still visible, mostly on the column.
- After flushing the table many times with WD-40 and using the table for a few months x-axis started to bind at the far ends. So I thoroughly flushed all the old grease off the lead screw and applied new gear grease. At this point the X-axis moved very freely from end-to-end. However that did not last long. It only lasted for like a month.
- Now the table is binding very badly on the far left and right. It takes a lot of effort to crank the table at the ends (a lot of effort)
- I know I am NOT using proper way oil and have not been using the oil ports that are in the front and back of the table until just recently. However, I do not use the mill much so I did not think it would impact things much. I have been using gear grease for the lead screw. ATF transmission fluid for the bottom of the table bed and table ways.
- As of now the table has been flushed of all the grease using WD-40 and a coat of silicone oil has been applied to the lead screw and the ways. But the table is still biding at the far ends.
- I backed off the x-axis backlash nuts so there is a lot of backlash, thinking that the issue is there. Before this there was very little (.002”) backlash in the center and none at the ends for the x-axis. It has *always* been a little stiff at the ends, but I just assumed that was the price for having low backlash on an older table?
Please see the followup for images.
Any guidance or thoughts would be very appreciated.
Oh, I have *recently* had a Kurt 6” vise bolted to the table for about 4 months, but at 60 some lbs, I have a hard time believing that would have warped the table or lead screw. I guess I would consider that was the cause if only one side of the table was biding, but both are binding.
Many thanks!
John
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Bridgeport J Head speed changer
Hello, I hope someone can help here.
Our Bridgeport BR J turret mill has had the handle broken off the Hi Lo speed changer. It needs to come off so we can fix it back on. Has anyone taken this part off before? If so how do I go about doing it?
And any ideas on how to fix it? My plan was to drill a new hole next to the stripped one, but other ideas will be taken on board. Or is there somewhere I could buy a new one?
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Cheers,
Pete
Our Bridgeport BR J turret mill has had the handle broken off the Hi Lo speed changer. It needs to come off so we can fix it back on. Has anyone taken this part off before? If so how do I go about doing it?
And any ideas on how to fix it? My plan was to drill a new hole next to the stripped one, but other ideas will be taken on board. Or is there somewhere I could buy a new one?
Cheers,
Pete
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Bridgeport Series I Controls - What have I got?
I originally posted this in "General" and was re-directed to this forum...
OK, new here on the forum, but not new to Bridgeport mills, or at least some of 'em.
I bought this mill on ebay, and I guess I didn't look at the pictures well enough because when it arrived, it had a couple of surprises. First off were the controls. Instead of the spindle switch being up on the left side of the head, this has a large control box on the side with a control panel that looks like it has some sort of speed control.
There's a "Rapid Traverse" button that has me a bit confused as this has the standard Bridgeport motor drive on the X axis. There's also a Servo brand drive on the Y, but these seem to be set up as usual with all of their controls on the motor units and are not connected to the control box. They just plug in with standard 120V AC plugs.
Inside the control cabinet was a schematic for what I think are the electronics in there, it had a drawing number of D-023651 and is titled "W/D PER NFPA NO. 79 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATION FOR I MILL ATTACH, POWER FEED." The serial number dates the mill to 1976, as does the date on the schematic.
I've attached pictures of the control panel, the schematic, and the drives. You may notice that the Y screw shaft is bent, the shippers damaged it. I was given $750 for repairs, hopefully that will be enough and will not be too huge a deal to accomplish.
Any info on the controls, and the repairs will be greatly appreciated!
OK, new here on the forum, but not new to Bridgeport mills, or at least some of 'em.
I bought this mill on ebay, and I guess I didn't look at the pictures well enough because when it arrived, it had a couple of surprises. First off were the controls. Instead of the spindle switch being up on the left side of the head, this has a large control box on the side with a control panel that looks like it has some sort of speed control.
There's a "Rapid Traverse" button that has me a bit confused as this has the standard Bridgeport motor drive on the X axis. There's also a Servo brand drive on the Y, but these seem to be set up as usual with all of their controls on the motor units and are not connected to the control box. They just plug in with standard 120V AC plugs.
Inside the control cabinet was a schematic for what I think are the electronics in there, it had a drawing number of D-023651 and is titled "W/D PER NFPA NO. 79 ELECTRICAL SPECIFICATION FOR I MILL ATTACH, POWER FEED." The serial number dates the mill to 1976, as does the date on the schematic.
I've attached pictures of the control panel, the schematic, and the drives. You may notice that the Y screw shaft is bent, the shippers damaged it. I was given $750 for repairs, hopefully that will be enough and will not be too huge a deal to accomplish.
Any info on the controls, and the repairs will be greatly appreciated!
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CMOS problem 1996 brigeport eztrack dx
Hi I have a 1996 Bridgeport EZ Trak dx and when booting up, the screen displays this:
CMOS System Options Not Set
Run Setup Utilities
Press F1 To Resume
I tried hitting F1, but none of the keys on the keyboard do anything. If anyone could help me out, I would really appreciate it someone told me is the battery but I don't know where is located it.
CMOS System Options Not Set
Run Setup Utilities
Press F1 To Resume
I tried hitting F1, but none of the keys on the keyboard do anything. If anyone could help me out, I would really appreciate it someone told me is the battery but I don't know where is located it.
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Odd Looking Bridgeport
I have seen a few of this type of machine, but never really paid much attention to them, now I'm curious as to why they look the way they do.
I think its made to be set up with a tracer? but I'm not sure.
I think its made to be set up with a tracer? but I'm not sure.
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My Bridgeport needs a DRO... And I'm clueless!
First off, I have been searching the web for answers, but just get more confused.
I really want to buy a 3 axis DRO for my 9x42 Bridgeport series I. I am just confused with proper scale length and if it depends on the type or manufacturer.
I also don't know anything about the cheaper kits on EBay, like $350 to $650 range kits.
Is magnetic best? Or glass scales just fine? What about trying to determine if a particular sized kit will work with your machine...does it depend on the manufacturer?
I noticed a nice Newall setup for sale, brand new, but the size of scales left me wondering if it would even possibly work on my Bridgeport. Any help appreciated!
I really want to buy a 3 axis DRO for my 9x42 Bridgeport series I. I am just confused with proper scale length and if it depends on the type or manufacturer.
I also don't know anything about the cheaper kits on EBay, like $350 to $650 range kits.
Is magnetic best? Or glass scales just fine? What about trying to determine if a particular sized kit will work with your machine...does it depend on the manufacturer?
I noticed a nice Newall setup for sale, brand new, but the size of scales left me wondering if it would even possibly work on my Bridgeport. Any help appreciated!
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Knee gib setup?..
Is there a method used to set the gib strip on the z axis of a bridgeport?
The knee is too heavy to feel for slop and I don't want to over tighten it and wedge the knee.
Any tips for sensible adjustment?
Pretty certain it needs a bit of attention as then DRO shows a fair shift when the knee lock is locked.
Thanks
The knee is too heavy to feel for slop and I don't want to over tighten it and wedge the knee.
Any tips for sensible adjustment?
Pretty certain it needs a bit of attention as then DRO shows a fair shift when the knee lock is locked.
Thanks
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Looking for a flycutter
Hey forum, I am looking for a medium sized flycutter for my bridgeport.
I have used an adjustable boring bar in the past for a mini flycutter, and I have to say it worked GREAT, but the little replaceable cutter broke
so I might as well get the right tool.
It needs a 1/2" shank,
Preferably HSS (never has experience with carbide, and don't want to take a chance. Plus I can sharpen HSS)
Mainly for aluminum, and steel.
~~No forum trades or buys~~
Thanks!
I have used an adjustable boring bar in the past for a mini flycutter, and I have to say it worked GREAT, but the little replaceable cutter broke
so I might as well get the right tool.
It needs a 1/2" shank,
Preferably HSS (never has experience with carbide, and don't want to take a chance. Plus I can sharpen HSS)
Mainly for aluminum, and steel.
~~No forum trades or buys~~
Thanks!
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Bridgeport powerpath15 troubles
hello I am new to the whole CNC thing I've been programming a Torq cut 22 mill for about 2 years now and just started getting good at it well at least I think I'm good and then my dad got a CNC lathe to add to my troubles so if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. I had a problem before on hydraulic pressure and getting the machine to start since the internal battery died and I had to get the back up dos program. That's all taken care of now and I'm on to the programming and setting up a part I drew a very simple program in bob cad just so od roughing an angle well I put it on a floppy as a pgm and txt file and both come up as saying the was a problem with seq 20 and syntx or something like that now if anyone knows a solution and can help I would really appreciate.
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Variable Speed Motor Re-assembly Clausing VF-1 mill
Hey guys, might be the wrong location for this post but I think after some research I'm correct in saying the VF-1 is similar to the 2J head. Anyways, I'm stumped and need some help.
I purchased an old VF-1 CNC (first one) over the weekend, and in order to get it into my garage, I needed to remove the motor and the pneumatic tool changer. Well, we do not have a manual and thinking it could not be that hard, a couple of my friends and I removed the motor by removing the spring at the bottom of the motor/drive pulley. Now I've gotten to the point where I need to put it back together, the motor is in place, but how in the world do I get the spring and capture bolt back in place? No way I could compress that spring to get the bolt back in, so I'm thinking that I've surely missed a step.
I found the BP manual online for the 2J and there are no such "Two Screws" that you can use to keep the spring in place while you remove the main bolt. Any help you all could offer would be greatly appreciated. The frustration in the shop and the forum searches for the answer yielded zero productivity today!
Thanks
Pat
I purchased an old VF-1 CNC (first one) over the weekend, and in order to get it into my garage, I needed to remove the motor and the pneumatic tool changer. Well, we do not have a manual and thinking it could not be that hard, a couple of my friends and I removed the motor by removing the spring at the bottom of the motor/drive pulley. Now I've gotten to the point where I need to put it back together, the motor is in place, but how in the world do I get the spring and capture bolt back in place? No way I could compress that spring to get the bolt back in, so I'm thinking that I've surely missed a step.
I found the BP manual online for the 2J and there are no such "Two Screws" that you can use to keep the spring in place while you remove the main bolt. Any help you all could offer would be greatly appreciated. The frustration in the shop and the forum searches for the answer yielded zero productivity today!
Thanks
Pat
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Bridgeport series I R2E3 Parts Manual (part no 11-04-0429)
Hi All
I was wondering if some kind soul could help me, I am looking for the Parts manual for a Series I R2E3. I have a good copy of all the other manuals now all I need is this one. Also if you are R2E3 owner ....welcome to the club.... if you want a copy of these feel free to PM me.
Any help is most welcome!
Alastair
I was wondering if some kind soul could help me, I am looking for the Parts manual for a Series I R2E3. I have a good copy of all the other manuals now all I need is this one. Also if you are R2E3 owner ....welcome to the club.... if you want a copy of these feel free to PM me.
Any help is most welcome!
Alastair
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Bridgeport Series 2 - 4J head.. power feed vs manual feed quill
Hi Folks
Ive gone through the forum and cant see a similar post.... so, if there is please direct me that way...
I'm new to the forum and the Bridgeport.... I have an issue with the quill feed, power feed works great but manual does not, handle just spins. had the unit apart and discovered the the quill feed shaft is a two piece shaft... there is no pin/key etc to lock the two parts together so I am very confused on what i need to do to get the manual feed to work....
any advice would be appreciated.....
Ive gone through the forum and cant see a similar post.... so, if there is please direct me that way...
I'm new to the forum and the Bridgeport.... I have an issue with the quill feed, power feed works great but manual does not, handle just spins. had the unit apart and discovered the the quill feed shaft is a two piece shaft... there is no pin/key etc to lock the two parts together so I am very confused on what i need to do to get the manual feed to work....
any advice would be appreciated.....
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Someone made a Bridgeport score!
I spotted this trailer on I-40 West bound today in Amarillo, TX.
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My Bridgeport needs a DRO... And I'm clueless!
First off, I have been searching the web for answers, but just get more confused.
I really want to buy a 3 axis DRO for my 9x42 Bridgeport series I. I am just confused with proper scale length and if it depends on the type or manufacturer.
I also don't know anything about the cheaper kits on EBay, like $350 to $650 range kits.
Is magnetic best? Or glass scales just fine? What about trying to determine if a particular sized kit will work with your machine...does it depend on the manufacturer?
I noticed a nice Newall setup for sale, brand new, but the size of scales left me wondering if it would even possibly work on my Bridgeport. Any help appreciated!
I really want to buy a 3 axis DRO for my 9x42 Bridgeport series I. I am just confused with proper scale length and if it depends on the type or manufacturer.
I also don't know anything about the cheaper kits on EBay, like $350 to $650 range kits.
Is magnetic best? Or glass scales just fine? What about trying to determine if a particular sized kit will work with your machine...does it depend on the manufacturer?
I noticed a nice Newall setup for sale, brand new, but the size of scales left me wondering if it would even possibly work on my Bridgeport. Any help appreciated!
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torque cut 22 and network
Folks,
since days I try to establish a network connection to my linux samba server or windows server.
there is a new motherboard in with a built in network card. got the driver running so far. but i am not able to see any server in the network.
does someone have a tcp/ip network under ms-dos running?
drives me crazy...
Thanks, Duesentrieb
since days I try to establish a network connection to my linux samba server or windows server.
there is a new motherboard in with a built in network card. got the driver running so far. but i am not able to see any server in the network.
does someone have a tcp/ip network under ms-dos running?
drives me crazy...
Thanks, Duesentrieb
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