This is on Maine CL now. It's not factory is it?
I don't see how you would mount it.
Bridgeport Milling Machine Riser - tools - by owner - sale
I don't see how you would mount it.
Bridgeport Milling Machine Riser - tools - by owner - sale
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16" Bridgeport riser?
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Hardinge HLV-H Spindle lenght
Anyone that may have the possibility to measure the spindle length of a Hardinge HLV-H for me?
Have really tried to search on the web, but without success...
Length of the bare spindle, without collet system :)
Have really tried to search on the web, but without success...
Length of the bare spindle, without collet system :)
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How to home Bridgeport ez path lathe
A friend just bought a Bridgeport ez path lathe and when it starts up it needs to be homed but none of the controls work.. we no nothing about the system. Any specific procedures that need to be done? Any info would be great. Thanks.
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Used manford mill
Hi. anyone have experience with manford mill mf 1/2 vs? are they good machines? are there spareparts available.
it is not a new machine but a used one I intend to buy in that case. If it is somthing too buy. Best regards![]()
Skickat från min SM-N960F via Tapatalk
it is not a new machine but a used one I intend to buy in that case. If it is somthing too buy. Best regards
Skickat från min SM-N960F via Tapatalk
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HLV feed motor getting too many volts
I'm currently re-wiring my HLV feed motor to use modern rectifiers to get rid of the old selenium rectifier for the armature and also to simplify the wiring. As part of that I'm tracing the wires and I've come across something odd.
The feed motor has on the tag: Volts 110A 200F, which obviously means 110V DC armature and 200VDC field. It's the only thing in the control box except for the LEFT-OFF-RIGHT switch which obviously sets the feed direction. I don't have an on-off switch or a lamp or a low-high switch like later machines, just these two things.
Just testing the vari-transformer without the new rectifiers fitted, I'm getting 0-230V when turning the dial full range. Now I'm wondering why my machine has been feeding over 200v into a 110v motor. Could this be a replacement motor of the wrong voltage? Were there motors on the early machines with field and armature both in the 200v range?
Schematics for the 1960's UK machines are thin on the ground, and most that I've found have the extra switches, some have resistors (I have none) and I'm unsure where to go with this. I don't want to cook my motor. I guess I could fit a buck transformer after the variable one to halve the voltage but I'm asking here before going that route.
Anyone have a clue what's going on?
The feed motor has on the tag: Volts 110A 200F, which obviously means 110V DC armature and 200VDC field. It's the only thing in the control box except for the LEFT-OFF-RIGHT switch which obviously sets the feed direction. I don't have an on-off switch or a lamp or a low-high switch like later machines, just these two things.
Just testing the vari-transformer without the new rectifiers fitted, I'm getting 0-230V when turning the dial full range. Now I'm wondering why my machine has been feeding over 200v into a 110v motor. Could this be a replacement motor of the wrong voltage? Were there motors on the early machines with field and armature both in the 200v range?
Schematics for the 1960's UK machines are thin on the ground, and most that I've found have the extra switches, some have resistors (I have none) and I'm unsure where to go with this. I don't want to cook my motor. I guess I could fit a buck transformer after the variable one to halve the voltage but I'm asking here before going that route.
Anyone have a clue what's going on?
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Mill head swap
I currently have a round ram j head, I came across a newer one,(not sure what you call it) it looks like where you mount the head, right in the center is a gear, I can't recall mine having that. Can I put my j head on it? Will I need an adapter? Or it just won't work? I am planning on swapping the whole top![]()
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Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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Any interest in a hydraulic copy attachment for a Hardinge HLV?
i just bought an HLV british model. it came with a hydraulic copy attachment. i have no use for the attachment. IT needs TLC maybe new hoses.
Any interest? before i spend the time and money to get it working, i am wondering if there is a need for an item like this.
PM me and i will text you some pics if you are interested.it comes with the hydraulic pump and it bolts on to the rail in the back of the machine. i think it is independent of the crosslide so you can still use the lathe normally after it is installed
Any interest? before i spend the time and money to get it working, i am wondering if there is a need for an item like this.
PM me and i will text you some pics if you are interested.it comes with the hydraulic pump and it bolts on to the rail in the back of the machine. i think it is independent of the crosslide so you can still use the lathe normally after it is installed
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Multifix Toolpost on HLV - 1/2" or 5/8" Shank?
Hi everyone. I want to get a multifix-style toolpost and am trying to size up the proper shank sizes for my new HLV.
The SPi catalog says that, for A-size toolposts, the min height between top of compound and spindle center is 1 1/8". This assumes a 3/4" shank tool.
The HLV spindle center height is just a hair over 1". So with a 5/8" shank, that's exactly at the limit of the spec if not a hair past it. With a 1/2" shank, there's some clearance.
Does anyone have experience with the holders to say if the 5/8" is too big? I don't have any 1/2" tools and would like to order some before my toolpost gets here, if needed.
Thanks!
The SPi catalog says that, for A-size toolposts, the min height between top of compound and spindle center is 1 1/8". This assumes a 3/4" shank tool.
The HLV spindle center height is just a hair over 1". So with a 5/8" shank, that's exactly at the limit of the spec if not a hair past it. With a 1/2" shank, there's some clearance.
Does anyone have experience with the holders to say if the 5/8" is too big? I don't have any 1/2" tools and would like to order some before my toolpost gets here, if needed.
Thanks!
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Need a newer DRO readout that works with my older glass scales
I have a QMS 800 DRO and QMS 500 glass scales on my Bridgeport Series 1. The DRO is not functioning correctly but the scales are good. I am looking to replace the DRO head and need to know the specs for the scale encoders so I can match up my scales to a newer DRO readout. Does anyone have the schematics for either the DRO head or the scale encoders or simply know what each pin is used for? Here are some pics of the DRO head and encoders
Thanks for any information you might have.
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Thanks for any information you might have.
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new vs. old bridgeport
Hey Guys,
Im looking for some input here and im new to the forum. We have an older ez trax Bridgeport from the 90's and it needs to be gone thru from top to bottom. We have talked to a few companies that rebuild these mills and we were told it would cost in the high 20k range. That would include everything gone thru and painted with an acurite controller. We also got a quote for a brand new Bridgeport with similar specs with an acurite controller for about 31k. My question is I have heard, from a salesman, the new bridgeports may not be as ridged as the old ones and are made cheaper. Is there any truth to that? It would be nice to keep the old mill for loose tolerance parts, but im wanting to hear from people that have ran the newer stuff. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Im looking for some input here and im new to the forum. We have an older ez trax Bridgeport from the 90's and it needs to be gone thru from top to bottom. We have talked to a few companies that rebuild these mills and we were told it would cost in the high 20k range. That would include everything gone thru and painted with an acurite controller. We also got a quote for a brand new Bridgeport with similar specs with an acurite controller for about 31k. My question is I have heard, from a salesman, the new bridgeports may not be as ridged as the old ones and are made cheaper. Is there any truth to that? It would be nice to keep the old mill for loose tolerance parts, but im wanting to hear from people that have ran the newer stuff. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Bridgeport x-axis powerfeed
Looking to put a x-axis power feed on my Bridgeport mill. I am a little overwhelmed in not only so many available but the range in cost. Anyone with any thoughts. What you have tried. Thoughts on China or servo ? I don't want to break the bank, but on the other hand I don't want to waste my money on junk. Thanks
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Universal dividing head
anybody ever installed one and done helical gears on a bridgeport
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Bridgeport shaping head-out of square.
OK-I find shaping head at fair price. When it's on I check it with my cube square. It's miles out in the plane you can't adjust. I've squared it up by shimming the swivel flange,and will leave it be as I use it for shaping half-rounds on bearing brasses and the like. The jaw which fits the ram is a perfect fit. Has anyone else found this? As I said,it does everything I want to do with it,so I shan't mess with it.
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Running a 50 htz british hardinge HLV on 60 htz
Anyone running a british made HLV-h which requires 50 cycles on our 60 hertz system? Speed and HP should increase. Any other side effects?
thanks
Rich
thanks
Rich
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Hardinge HLV-H blowing low voltage fuse
Hi all,
I have lurked on this forum for many years... And the wealth of information is truly astounding. I have run into a problem with our shops HLV-H that I hope I can get pointed in the right direction with.
The lathe is a Hardinge HLV-H wired for 460v 3ph and powered by our shops 480v 3ph service.
I used the lathe on a Friday and it worked fine, but when I tried to use it on Monday it was completely dead. Over that weekend we did have some fairly decent thunderstorms in the area.
I checked all of the fuses and one of the low voltage fuses was blown. I installed a new fuse and the machine ran for about 15 seconds and blew the new fuse. I checked the ground connection and did a general once over of the mass of wiring (which just looks like wire spaghetti to me) and tried another fuse. Same result except this time I smelled electrical burning.
I did some basic continuity checks and found that the line side of the fuse socket in question has continuity to ground. The load side does not. The fuse socket's load side goes up to the on and off switches and then down to several relays or contactors (I don't know what they are to be honest.)
The Line side of the socket is fed directly from the "X2" (wire is also marked X2) position on the transformer. The transformer indicates that should be 110V output. I put the multimeter across the X2 output lug and a lug right next to it which is wired to ground and there was continuity / 1.2 Ohms resistance.
I'm no electrician but it seems to me like a hot leg from the transformer should not have continuity to ground?
Also a few of the relays/contactors have some burnt spots which may just be from use and age? I really don't know.
I am not opposed to calling someone in to the shop to get this problem sorted but I really don't know who to call... Anyone know what type of electrician does that work?
Thanks for any help or tips!
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I have lurked on this forum for many years... And the wealth of information is truly astounding. I have run into a problem with our shops HLV-H that I hope I can get pointed in the right direction with.
The lathe is a Hardinge HLV-H wired for 460v 3ph and powered by our shops 480v 3ph service.
I used the lathe on a Friday and it worked fine, but when I tried to use it on Monday it was completely dead. Over that weekend we did have some fairly decent thunderstorms in the area.
I checked all of the fuses and one of the low voltage fuses was blown. I installed a new fuse and the machine ran for about 15 seconds and blew the new fuse. I checked the ground connection and did a general once over of the mass of wiring (which just looks like wire spaghetti to me) and tried another fuse. Same result except this time I smelled electrical burning.
I did some basic continuity checks and found that the line side of the fuse socket in question has continuity to ground. The load side does not. The fuse socket's load side goes up to the on and off switches and then down to several relays or contactors (I don't know what they are to be honest.)
The Line side of the socket is fed directly from the "X2" (wire is also marked X2) position on the transformer. The transformer indicates that should be 110V output. I put the multimeter across the X2 output lug and a lug right next to it which is wired to ground and there was continuity / 1.2 Ohms resistance.
I'm no electrician but it seems to me like a hot leg from the transformer should not have continuity to ground?
Also a few of the relays/contactors have some burnt spots which may just be from use and age? I really don't know.
I am not opposed to calling someone in to the shop to get this problem sorted but I really don't know who to call... Anyone know what type of electrician does that work?
Thanks for any help or tips!
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Hardinge Superslant 3 axis X axis seized. Taking apart and hopeful repair
I have a Hardinge Superslant that I changed over from the Fanuc to a LinuxCNC board. With that, I had always told myself to check the lube as the old lube level switch didn't work. Well, I forgot it and then during the middle of an operation everything went bad. The X axis servo overloaded, stopped and the axis seized.
This is my progress of what I am doing to resolve it. I will do what I can to solve it, if I can. When I started I didn't know if the ball screw or the ways were sized.
This morning, start
![]()
Turret and tail stock. I placed wood in case the turret fell, but even without the belt drive connected, nothing was moving.
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The status of the X axis servo motor. The belt/pulley did not want to move at all.
![]()
First I removed the main cover. Screws on side, bottom, and top.
![]()
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I acquired this lathe either third or fourth hand. It seems there was 'something' bolted to the back of the camber shown here by the clean circle, but I have no idea what it was. A lamp of some sort?
![]()
Cover off, I removed the lower front panel to remove the door.
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Lower panel removed. It had two plates and foam between. The foam was quite oil soaked.
![]()
I looked at the ball screw at the bottom. It seems a metal cover plate that was to be there was missing.
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Remove a plastic cover which has a lip around the side to remove debris. This was quite brittle. Aged plastic.
![]()
Beneath was a set of screws and the central screw. I removed the center plug and black oil poured out. The two smaller screws at 10 and 5 on the round disk came out (metric size?) but the plate did not come out. I took a bolt and tapped it 9/16-NF and threaded it in to the center plug to pull the cap out.
![]()
Ungodly oil poured out. About two tablespoons of this black stuff.
![]()
From the manual, I can make a tool with two pins to remove the outer nut. I would then remove the inner hex nut on the ball screw to remove the bearings. Afterwards I removed the three nuts holding what I assume are way clamps or something like it. Shims of metal that maintain pressure between the turret and the ways.
![]()
Next I looked towards the top. I removed the upper covers. The black plastic had already been broken by someone else's hand it seems. Notice a small bar of metal slot near the bottom. That is what I believe is the top of the way sliding shim. Maybe.
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More removal exposing the gear and ball screw ends.
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Exposing the sides of the turret.
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It was at this point I started experimenting. Granted, I am not the best experimenter.
Experiment 1. Can it move?
Using a 7/8" socket set, I could (with some force) turn the ball screw nut. So ball screw works.
Experiment 2. How much can it move?
Taking a hydraulic power pack, I put the cylinder on blocks and pushed the turret up. No movement. Using the socket set, it moved 0.5mm, then 1mm upwards. I can only tighten the nut on the end of the ball screw one direction, so I don't want to go further as I cannot go the opposite way. But it does indicate I can move along the ways with great force.
Experiment 3. Likely what I should have done first. Put penetrating oil onto the ways.
The outcome:
It barely moves. It seems seized. I have removed the nuts holding the shims, so maybe I can get them out somehow.
The ways are held together with bolts coming up from below. That doesn't seem good, as I can't get to them. From the manual it says there are 10 bolts and I can only see the two two pair.
Next steps:
Option 1. Remove turret, look at it from below.
Not the best option. There are bolts on the side to remove the X from the Z axis ways. This would involve a bunch of removal of wires and seeing if I can pull apart the axis to get to the nuts and get to the ways. I don't know if the ball screw is accessible from below.
Option 2. Remove the ball screw?
Not sure if this would do anything. I don't think the bearings are bad, but they are coated in black oil. It could also have the chance if spilling bearings all across the floor. However, this does make it seem that the ball screw cartridge would be accessible from one side during install, possibly the bottom as noted in Option 1. There is no noticeable access port to the ball screw from the top.
Option 3. Tap out the way blocks
I don't know if tapping the spacers holding the ways in place will slide them out the bottom. I don't know if anyone has done this or if this could work.
Option 4. Send it.
A bad idea. A phrase said multiple times by my colleague right before he snaps a bolt with his impact gun. I don't know if I can slide the turret off of the frame somehow to clean this up. It is promising that I could move it a mm or so, however that was with a bottle jack and a lot of torque.
Any suggestions? I will not be back at this for about 3 weeks as I have to fly out to do a service call half way across the continent.
This is my progress of what I am doing to resolve it. I will do what I can to solve it, if I can. When I started I didn't know if the ball screw or the ways were sized.
This morning, start
Turret and tail stock. I placed wood in case the turret fell, but even without the belt drive connected, nothing was moving.
The status of the X axis servo motor. The belt/pulley did not want to move at all.
First I removed the main cover. Screws on side, bottom, and top.
I acquired this lathe either third or fourth hand. It seems there was 'something' bolted to the back of the camber shown here by the clean circle, but I have no idea what it was. A lamp of some sort?
Cover off, I removed the lower front panel to remove the door.
Lower panel removed. It had two plates and foam between. The foam was quite oil soaked.
I looked at the ball screw at the bottom. It seems a metal cover plate that was to be there was missing.
Remove a plastic cover which has a lip around the side to remove debris. This was quite brittle. Aged plastic.
Beneath was a set of screws and the central screw. I removed the center plug and black oil poured out. The two smaller screws at 10 and 5 on the round disk came out (metric size?) but the plate did not come out. I took a bolt and tapped it 9/16-NF and threaded it in to the center plug to pull the cap out.
Ungodly oil poured out. About two tablespoons of this black stuff.
From the manual, I can make a tool with two pins to remove the outer nut. I would then remove the inner hex nut on the ball screw to remove the bearings. Afterwards I removed the three nuts holding what I assume are way clamps or something like it. Shims of metal that maintain pressure between the turret and the ways.
Next I looked towards the top. I removed the upper covers. The black plastic had already been broken by someone else's hand it seems. Notice a small bar of metal slot near the bottom. That is what I believe is the top of the way sliding shim. Maybe.
More removal exposing the gear and ball screw ends.
Exposing the sides of the turret.
It was at this point I started experimenting. Granted, I am not the best experimenter.
Experiment 1. Can it move?
Using a 7/8" socket set, I could (with some force) turn the ball screw nut. So ball screw works.
Experiment 2. How much can it move?
Taking a hydraulic power pack, I put the cylinder on blocks and pushed the turret up. No movement. Using the socket set, it moved 0.5mm, then 1mm upwards. I can only tighten the nut on the end of the ball screw one direction, so I don't want to go further as I cannot go the opposite way. But it does indicate I can move along the ways with great force.
Experiment 3. Likely what I should have done first. Put penetrating oil onto the ways.
The outcome:
It barely moves. It seems seized. I have removed the nuts holding the shims, so maybe I can get them out somehow.
The ways are held together with bolts coming up from below. That doesn't seem good, as I can't get to them. From the manual it says there are 10 bolts and I can only see the two two pair.
Next steps:
Option 1. Remove turret, look at it from below.
Not the best option. There are bolts on the side to remove the X from the Z axis ways. This would involve a bunch of removal of wires and seeing if I can pull apart the axis to get to the nuts and get to the ways. I don't know if the ball screw is accessible from below.
Option 2. Remove the ball screw?
Not sure if this would do anything. I don't think the bearings are bad, but they are coated in black oil. It could also have the chance if spilling bearings all across the floor. However, this does make it seem that the ball screw cartridge would be accessible from one side during install, possibly the bottom as noted in Option 1. There is no noticeable access port to the ball screw from the top.
Option 3. Tap out the way blocks
I don't know if tapping the spacers holding the ways in place will slide them out the bottom. I don't know if anyone has done this or if this could work.
Option 4. Send it.
A bad idea. A phrase said multiple times by my colleague right before he snaps a bolt with his impact gun. I don't know if I can slide the turret off of the frame somehow to clean this up. It is promising that I could move it a mm or so, however that was with a bottle jack and a lot of torque.
Any suggestions? I will not be back at this for about 3 weeks as I have to fly out to do a service call half way across the continent.
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Hardinge GS200 Tailstock Problem
We recently purchased a Hardinge GS200, and the tailstock got hit. Trying to find documents or a procedure or even a parts list. Anyone have input? It will be really helpful
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Hardinge Cobra 42 specs
I saw an ad on a local craigslist for a hardinge cobra 42 lathe, I have a haas tl-1 now, but could do a lot more with more tools like in the hardinge, does anyone know the specs for what the x travel range is? I know of some ongoing work I could get but it would involve turning about 10" diameter parts with a narrow section about 4" diameter, I can do it with the tl-1 but I have to replace the tool changer with a single tool holder at the moment.
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Bridgeport 6F Power Feed Assembly
Good Morning,
Could someone tell me if this unit has auto stops. I can see where the stop would mount to the table, but I have no electronics or stop. The page of the manual does not appear to show any (that I could see) but I have seen the aftermarket units with them. If so, could you point me in the right direction for the parts.
Thanks,
Bob
Could someone tell me if this unit has auto stops. I can see where the stop would mount to the table, but I have no electronics or stop. The page of the manual does not appear to show any (that I could see) but I have seen the aftermarket units with them. If so, could you point me in the right direction for the parts.
Thanks,
Bob
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Kurt D675 v Kurt D688
Hi All,
I recently acquired a Bridgeport 2J that included a Kurt brand vise. It is labelled as a D675. I sent the serial number to Kurt to inquire about age, etc. They replied back that my serial comes up as a D688. Can someone confirm their advice, and advise on what the difference is between the D675 and D688?
Thanks.
Evan
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I recently acquired a Bridgeport 2J that included a Kurt brand vise. It is labelled as a D675. I sent the serial number to Kurt to inquire about age, etc. They replied back that my serial comes up as a D688. Can someone confirm their advice, and advise on what the difference is between the D675 and D688?
Thanks.
Evan
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