It’s actually a Feeler 618 but the parts are in this case the same, I’m told.
Bought this machine knowing this pin was sheared. I was able to run it and put the EM gearbox gearbox through it’s paces so I’m guardedly hopeful that the pin did its job... but we’ll see. First things first, need to get the output shaft and leadscrew pinned back together. :)
If I clamp the half-nut I’m able to slide the leadscrew towards the tailstock far enough to expose the formerly-pinned area of the gearbox output shaft. The metal smeared pretty good when it sheared, but I was still able to, I’m pretty sure, ID the small end of the pin. I tried to tap it out with my small brass hammer and a punch, but it’s not budging and unless someone here assures me in forceful terms that a BFH is the proper solution, I’m not comfortable hitting it any harder than I was. Don’t want to damage a bushing or bearing on that output shaft, or bend the shaft itself.
The pin is in 3 pieces. My plan is to get that middle piece out of the gearbox shaft first. Once it’s out of the way I should be able to line it back up and tap out the smaller pieces in the leadscrew “sleeve”.
I’m thinking I’m just gonna have to drill out that middle section, and there’s good odds I’ll mess up the walls of the tapered hole in the process at least a little bit. So my current plan is to drill out until it hollows out enough to hopefully tap out. Then line things back up and re-ream the hole(s) with a #2 pin reamer and drive in a new pin.
My experience with damaged taper pins in machine tools is limited to rebuilding the clamping mechanism in my Webb lathe’s tailstock. A gorilla had done really dumb things in there... however the two taper pins he damaged weren’t sheared, just bent, so in that case I was able to get them out, re-ream the holes and put new pins in. So, the whole sheared pin thing is new territory.
I’m told the fallback move here is to just drill/ream a new hole entirely next to the existing one. I’m hoping to avoid that.
Appreciate any pro tips. :)
Bought this machine knowing this pin was sheared. I was able to run it and put the EM gearbox gearbox through it’s paces so I’m guardedly hopeful that the pin did its job... but we’ll see. First things first, need to get the output shaft and leadscrew pinned back together. :)
If I clamp the half-nut I’m able to slide the leadscrew towards the tailstock far enough to expose the formerly-pinned area of the gearbox output shaft. The metal smeared pretty good when it sheared, but I was still able to, I’m pretty sure, ID the small end of the pin. I tried to tap it out with my small brass hammer and a punch, but it’s not budging and unless someone here assures me in forceful terms that a BFH is the proper solution, I’m not comfortable hitting it any harder than I was. Don’t want to damage a bushing or bearing on that output shaft, or bend the shaft itself.
The pin is in 3 pieces. My plan is to get that middle piece out of the gearbox shaft first. Once it’s out of the way I should be able to line it back up and tap out the smaller pieces in the leadscrew “sleeve”.
I’m thinking I’m just gonna have to drill out that middle section, and there’s good odds I’ll mess up the walls of the tapered hole in the process at least a little bit. So my current plan is to drill out until it hollows out enough to hopefully tap out. Then line things back up and re-ream the hole(s) with a #2 pin reamer and drive in a new pin.
My experience with damaged taper pins in machine tools is limited to rebuilding the clamping mechanism in my Webb lathe’s tailstock. A gorilla had done really dumb things in there... however the two taper pins he damaged weren’t sheared, just bent, so in that case I was able to get them out, re-ream the holes and put new pins in. So, the whole sheared pin thing is new territory.
I’m told the fallback move here is to just drill/ream a new hole entirely next to the existing one. I’m hoping to avoid that.
Appreciate any pro tips. :)